作　　者： (闫政旭）; (毕岸洁）;

机构地区： 中国地质大学珠宝学院,湖北武汉430074

出　　处： 《宝石和宝石学杂志》 2017年第4期45-50,共6页

摘　　要： 传统工艺的传承与发展是现代设计创新的根本动力。作为先辈留下的宝贵财富,金银锤揲工艺具有传统审美意义上的价值取向,作为重要的金银器成型方法,其随着时代的进步也不断发展。如今,越来越多的设计师把这种传统工艺进行改良并应用于现代珠宝首饰设计当中,并推陈出新,设计出了兼具文化属性和时代审美特征的首饰作品,受到了目标消费群体和艺术爱好者的普遍欢迎,也给目前盲目学习国外设计款式的珠宝行业一剂强心针。如果能充分利用锤揲工艺独有的造型语言、表现手法和人文意义,激发设计者的创造能力,进而在写实性设计、时尚性设计、师法自然和新材料应用等方面赋予首饰新的面貌特征,定能为具有中国文化特色的首饰设计创新带来全新的可能性。 The inheritance and development of traditional craft is fundamental driving force of modern design innovation. Gold and silver hammering craft as a valuable asset left by the an-cestors, possess traditional aesthetic sense of the value orientation, and as an important gold and silver molding methods, with the progress of the times, it is also developing continuous-ly. Today, more and more designers improve the traditional craft and apply it to the design of modern jewelry, and creative jewelry works that behave both the cultural attributes and aesthetic characteristics are welcomed by the target consumer groups and art hobbies,which gives current domestic jewelry industry that blindly studying of foreign jewelry industry a booster. Unique modeling language, performance techniques and human meaning of ham-mering craft should be fully explored to stimulate the creative ability of designers, and then gives the jewelry a new appearance in following aspects： Realistic design, fashion design, natural law and new materials applications-and it indeed will help to bring new possibilities for the jewelry innovative design of Chinese cultural characteristics.

关 键 词： 传统工艺 金银锤揲 珠宝首饰设计 中国文化特色