导　　师： 柏贵喜

学科专业： 030401

授予学位： 硕士

作　　者： ;

机构地区： 中南民族大学

摘　　要： 黎锦承载了久远的历史信息，有着丰富的文化内涵。它与黎族传统社会的自然环境、生计方式、社会组织、民间信仰及价值理念有密切的关系，被认为是黎族文化的“活化石”。本文在前人研究基础上，通过田野调查，以重合盆地的美孚方言黎族的黎锦为中心进行艺术人类学阐释。 民族学、文化人类学的学科理念之一便是强调文化的多样性及地方性，因而我们对文化事项在进行阐释时有必要将其置于特定的历史与社会文化背景下进行。依据既有文献材料，本文简要介绍了重合盆地的情况，并对美孚方言黎族的黎锦做了大致介绍。在此基础上，借艺术象征理论对黎锦的色彩和纹样进行分析，认为黎锦的常用色彩传递了包括人的体质特征、社会特征和信仰观念等多重信息，表达了约定俗成的观念和思想感情。文中将黎锦的功能性象征大致分为表达性、叙述性、指示性及统合性象征展开论述。 倘若黎锦的色彩及纹样是一种明显的文化表征，那么作为一种文化系统的黎锦所蕴含的文化及社会意义就更为广阔与复杂。借用艺术人类学的符号系统分析法将黎锦所构成之物类分为佩饰、筒裙及服饰三类符号系统逐一进行文化叙事性分析。黎锦的佩饰种类繁多，文中选取了美孚方言黎族的头巾作为主要研究对象，分析显示黎锦纹样的选取及图案构造是生活场景的一种抽象模拟，并透露了纹样的选取与文化理念复杂关系。对由五幅黎锦连缀而成的筒裙进行文化叙事分析时发现，筒裙的色彩、线条及纹样图案隐喻了传承历史、教育后人、认知生活的重要文化意义。黎锦是服饰的重要组成部分。构成服饰的织锦有着惯有的文化意义，而不同的服饰搭配则指示了不同的社会情境。 黎锦的文化系统有着独特的文化特征，但内嵌于具体的社会文化网络之中，与其他社会事项有着无法割裂的联系。将黎锦织造者视为黎锦文化的实践与体验者，由黎族传统社会分工及知识的角度出发考察了黎锦织造者较高的社会地位，并尝试探讨了黎锦的文化传承现象与黎锦织造者的身体实践问题。 The Li brocade carries abundant historical information and cultural meaning.Seen as “living fossil” of Li culture, it is closely associated with Li society’s naturalenvironment, living style, social framwork, folk beliefs and life values. Based on theseresearches and field work, this paper aims to interpret the cultural meaning of MeifuLi’s traditional brocade in Chonghe Basin. One of the subject goals of ethnology and anthropology is to study on thediversity and the localization of culture. Therefore, to carry out cultural interpretation,we have to analyze cultural phenomenon under specific historical and social culturalcontext. Based on literature and field work interviews, this paper briefly introduced thehistory of Chonghe Basin and the Meifu Li’s brocade. On this basis, the paper thenanalyzes the color and the pattern of Li brocade with artistic symbol theory. The authorfound that the commonly used colors in Li brocade illustrate multiple information,including people’s physical characteristics, social characteristics and belief, andexpress the conventional concepts, thinking and feelings. In this paper, the functionalsymbol of Li brocade has been separated into expressive symbol, narrative symbol,instructive symbol and integrative symbol. The color and pattern of Li brocade haven been regarding as evident culturaltokens. As for Li brocade, it contains much broader and more complexed cultural andsocial meaning as a cultural system. With the symbol analysis method in anthropologyof art, this paper makes cultural narrating analysis on the component parts of Librocade respectively, including baldric, tight skirt and apparel and accessories. Inconsideration of the various categories of Li brocade’s baldric, this thesis choosescoverchief of Meifu Li nationality as the main study object. Analysis shows that theselection and conformation of Li brocade is an abstract simulation of everyday scenesand discloses the complex relationship between the selection of pattern and culturalidea. While conducting the cultural narrating analysis on the tight skirt consist of fivepictures of Li brocade, the author discovers that all the color, line and pattern of it contain essential cultural connation of heriting history, educating posterity andcognizing life. Li brocade composes an important part of clothing. Brocade that madeup clothing carries conventional cultural meaning. In addition, different collocation ofclothing denotes different social situation. The cultural system of Li brocade has its specific cultural features, but thesecultural features are embedded in social cultural network and cannot be separated fromother social items. This paper regards the creators of Li brocade as practitioners and thefirsthand ones who experience the Li culture and investigates their higher social statusfrom the perspective of division of labor in Li traditional society and then attempts todiscuss the phenomenon of cultural inheritance in Li brocade and the issue of itscreators’ physical practice.

关 键 词： 黎锦 文化阐释 艺术人类学 美孚方言黎族

分 类 号： [C912.4 C95]

领　　域： [经济管理] [社会学] [社会学]