作 者: ;
机构地区: 中山大学地理科学与规划学院
出 处: 《热带地理》 2008年第3期242-246,共5页
摘 要: 介绍了砂质海岸近岸地形动力过程的时空多尺度特征及其复杂性,概述了国内外在近岸表面波变形数学模型、长重力波、近岸环流和海滩-碎波带地形研究方面的进展,并简介了笔者等在海滩中、小尺度地形动力过程和海岸长期变化方面的一些研究实例,最后概括了未来需优先探索的地形动力学问题和研究策略。 The multi-scale characteristics of temporal and spatial variation and the complexity in nearshore morphodynamic processes of sandy coast are introduced in the paper. The research progress at home and abroad on mathematical models of surface wave transformation in the nearshore zone, infragravity waves and nearshore circulation in surf zone, and beach-surf zone morphology is reviewed. Some examples of small-and-intermediatescale beach landform morphodynamic processes and the long term coastal changes researched by the author and his group are briefly explained. Some science issues in need of priority exploration and research strategies are recommended for future study.